Specialized tools.

[Blackdog]

Lets see some of them specialized tools you've come up with that help you trap smarter not harder.

[Tony Howard]

These are stabilizers that I made for my 280 back when I was otter trapping hard. The only problem I have with them is you can not put the trigger on the bottom for beaver trapping. Due to trigger set I run for otter, they work great. They have the single flat bar which will not allow them to twist in the ground. Plus you can use them for a tie off if there is nothing close enough to tie off to. The model cost me a arm and leg to posse with them.

[Blackdog]

I like'em!!

Heres a couple tools and drives that i've had made to make a little easier on the line. I trap out of the back of my truck so i like tools that are "supersized" the less bending over the better.

[Tony Howard]

I always have problems with beating off or flattening out the heads on all my hammer tools and stake drivers. I do wish Mr. Hardy would tell me/us how to make a tool that will last longer. I know he knows, but he is keeping it under his hat.

Troy do you have problems breaking your welds or pinging out the driver heads?

[Blackdog]

One tip that prolongs the life of your driver is to extend the rod past the nut. Like in my 3rd pic. Then taper it. Look how the old one piece metal chisels where shaped on the hammering end. They were tapered. This will help the peening but it does need to be cleaned up every now and then.

One of these years i'll try the post driver style. That might be the ticket?

[Sgt Rob]

I figure most folks have at least seen the contraption which holds the fur down while a hoist pulls the carcass upward. The device is typically made with locking pliers and re-bar jaws to hold the fur. I built a couple of prototypes and had a problem with the fur tearing where the re-bar is gripping it. My neighbor just might have solved that problem last night. He shoes horses and goes through a file bout every 3 days so he gave me a few used files. I'm going to try and replace the re-bar in the locking pliers with a 2-3" sections of file to grap the fur.

The pliers are currently welded to a U frame in a horizontal position like this --- ---

I'm going to cut them off and reposition them so the jaws are more in line with the direction of pull on the hide like this / \

Anyone have any thoughts? I hate to try something that has already been done knowing it won't work.

[Robert Smith]

Rob, mine use the rebar with three pieces, two on one jaw and one on the other. they are at a angle towards the to a little bit too. I have had no problem with them tearing. Dewayne has a real good idea of what it takes to make one.......hint hint.

[Sgt Rob]

Version 2 has been completed. It works a lot better how.

s1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/sgtrob/?action=view¤t=HideJawsver2.mp4