4leaux
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by 4leaux on Oct 19, 2011 20:40:43 GMT -5
As some of you may know that i do a good bit of removal work, both commercial and residentual. A few of yall in conversation mentioned trying 100 body grips. So i took the hint and bought a dozen. I have been playing around with them in mock sets. I feel these may be a very useful tool for me as they are easier to tote will fit in tight spaces and best of all no relocation needed on each catch. R&R only. ;D Now selling the idea to some of these costumers may be the hardest part. (will keep yall posted)
|
|
|
Post by gailkeller on Oct 20, 2011 9:20:23 GMT -5
4leaux,when I used to put the 110 conibears on the log sets in the swamp for mink,I caught five or six squirrels at every set before I ever caught my first mink,you had to thin them out.I would think a 110 conibear mounted to a 2x4 with 4 double headed nails or a commercial conibear bracket would work well inside an attic,you could shove a 4 foot length of 2x4 into some tight places,be sure to anchor them to the 2x4,you do not want a crippled squirrel crawling off into a tight spot and dying.On the outside of a home,you could use an appropriate size PVC pipe with notches cut on the sides for your 110 or 120 conibear,anchored off well again.I would think you could also construct a small tunnel out of hardware wire,with the side notches for the trap,you could even wire the offside hinge from the spring to the hardware wire for extra support,with only one notch on the spring side.On chimneys,I would think a similar set-up would work also for squirrels,narrow the opening down for squirrels and force them to enter through the smaller opening with the 110 conibear in it.For raccoons,if using the smaller conibears,I would use the 120 conibear for a swift dispatch.The 160 or 220 conibear can also be set up in larger openings for raccoon,there are also 155 conibear traps with a 5"x5" jaw spread that would work on coons in smaller openings.I have caught coons in 110 and 120 conibears,it is a tight fit,but you would be surprised how small a hole a very big raccoon can squeeze through when he wants to.
|
|
4leaux
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by 4leaux on Oct 20, 2011 15:36:38 GMT -5
I find that small fence staples work very well both in positioning and in ancoring. Guess there good for many things
|
|
4leaux
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by 4leaux on Nov 2, 2011 15:09:01 GMT -5
Only a couple days in and these 110's have payed for them selfs 10 time over already. Im very excited and they r saving me gas money too due to the fact i dont have to relocate the critter before i reset my trap. Will keep yall posted.
|
|
|
Post by gailkeller on Nov 3, 2011 7:20:07 GMT -5
4leaux,I remember long ago discovering the miracle of the conibear trap and what an efficient tool they were for fur harvest,especially the 110 and 120 for blind set mink trapping.I am glad you are now seeing the value of them for NWCO work,they are only limited in their usefulness by their size and your ability to adapt them to your particular nuisance problems,be creative and use your imagination,they will always do their part,as will the larger conibear traps,when you need them for larger nuisance animals.Good luck,my friend.
|
|
4leaux
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by 4leaux on Nov 3, 2011 18:06:14 GMT -5
What i thought to be a wise man once told me......" There's no cheating it trapping."
|
|
|
Post by gailkeller on Nov 4, 2011 8:24:56 GMT -5
There's no cheating on the regulations,but after that all's fair in love and war.
|
|
4leaux
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by 4leaux on Nov 30, 2011 23:10:49 GMT -5
The set Attachments:
|
|
4leaux
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by 4leaux on Nov 30, 2011 23:11:36 GMT -5
The catch Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by gailkeller on Dec 3, 2011 9:09:44 GMT -5
4leaux,necessity is the mother of invention,the sweet taste of success,congratulations.
|
|
|
Post by Sgt Rob on Dec 15, 2011 4:18:10 GMT -5
I'm getting ready to set some 110s on a job tomorrow. I might borrow your set idea and also set along the top of a fence. Going to use Duke 110 for now but just ordered some Belise 110s and squirrel snares to try out. Merry Christmas to me.
|
|
4leaux
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by 4leaux on Dec 16, 2011 8:56:30 GMT -5
Gud luck and may u catch many squirrels....
|
|
|
Post by Sgt Rob on Dec 17, 2011 0:02:44 GMT -5
The job is set. 2 110s on the fence, 2 110s guarding a couple of entrance holes to the attic and the third hole has been covered. What a mess! The property owner has let this problem go too long and the wood is rotten so there is little to anchor to. Instead of using the fence staples you used, I built a coni holder out of angle aluminum a 1x2 and some nails. I had to improvise last night because the client needed the job set up today. My concern is the jump the trap takes when it springs off the house. I hope it doesn't jump away from the squirrel as it is exiting the attic.
|
|
|
Post by dewayne on Dec 17, 2011 9:34:49 GMT -5
Let us know what happens.
|
|
4leaux
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by 4leaux on Dec 17, 2011 10:33:22 GMT -5
I think u should be fine 2 out of 3 of my sets jumped off the side of house, but there was still a squirrel hanging from it. i set my trigger so that you minimize the area that they could jump through. i use a half (H) set trigger. O and i also found some 110's that are round they may work very well too with only having a 2 1/2" jaw ? food for thought.
|
|